The 12-Step-Programme to Get Curls & Waves That Last

We all love beautiful, bouncy curls, but all too often I hear “my hair doesn’t hold a curl” or “my hair is too straight to curl”. So I’m sharing my tips and tricks on how to create those gorgeous curls that last all day.

1. Start your prep in the shower

Although it is best to curl second or third-day hair, you can take certain measures when you do wash your hair to ensure that when the time comes, your curls will be beautiful, defined, and last for hours.

Go very light on the conditioner when washing your hair. Most women over-condition their hair, leaving it too soft and slippery to hold a curl. The key to long lasting curls is to have enough grit and texture to the hair to hold those bad boys in place.

2. Don’t try to curl freshly washed hair

Having said all of the above, it’s best to start with second or third day hair! Although you might love the feeling of fresh, clean hair, curls tend to hold better in dirtier hair because the natural oils from your scalp give the hair a grittier texture and natural hold so there’s a better chance the curls will last longer. If you’re in between washes and are worried about your hair looking oily, try using some dry shampoo at the roots to help soak up any extra oil.

3. Prep It!

Styling hair is as much about using the right products as it is the right tools and techniques. I know of few, if any, hairdressers that can manipulate hair to do what they want perfectly without their ‘wet tools’. Before beginning to curl your hair, apply a thickening mousse. If you think you're using too much mousse, you're applying just the right amount. Take one tennis ball-size mound (or two, if your hair is long) and saturate damp or dry hair from roots to ends. Since mousse contains alcohol it will remove some of the moisture from your hair, giving more grit & hold. Although I usually preach using alcohol and sulfate-free hair products, this is one of the few times that using an alcohol-based product is actually recommended.

4. Dry It! Properly!

Blast your hair dry, putting in as much volume, lift and texture as possible. My favourite way is to lift the hair up and blast the dryer up at the roots, then down the shaft, but you can turn your head upside down too. The key is to keep that texture in there (are you seeing a pattern here?) Don’t smooth your hair too much with a brush or it will be too slippery to hold a curl. Make sure your hair is 100% bone dry – wait a few seconds after drying it and give it a feel. If it feels cold, it’s still damp. Besides being incredibly bad for your hair, curling damp hair won’t hold. It may not even curl at all.

5. Prep It! some more!

Back to using the right products. 

Heat protector: A MUST! Heat styling is the number one way women damage their hair, so even if you choose to use nothing else, make this one your priority.

Dry Shampoo: Along with the obvious benefits of soaking up oil on day-old hair, dry shampoo is great for curling hair that’s freshly washed, it adds grip and gritty texture without being heavy or oily – the perfect way to ‘dirty up’ your hair.

Hair Spray: Yes – hair spray BEFORE you curl! Spray a light mist onto each section and wait a few seconds for it to dry before applying heat. Use a soft ‘working’ hairspray, not extra hold glue, and don’t spray too close to your hair or it will make your curls crunchy and heavy. 

6. Invest in good hot tools

Do you think us hairdressers would invest upwards of £100 on each tool if we could do the same thing for £20? You may think that your hair is ‘stick straight’ and ‘your curls will fall apart in 20 minutes anyway.’ Well, you will continue to think that as long as you use cheap hot tools! Only when you switch to better quality tools, will you realise that the problem isn't your hair—it's the curling iron. Here’s why:

High-end curling irons and wands are usually coated with tourmaline or ceramic, which are materials proven to cause less damage to your hair than straight metal. Yes, they may be more expensive, but they are less damaging on your hair, they heat up better allowing you to apply heat for a shorter period of time, and heat more evenly for a better, more even curl and no damaging ‘hot spots’. Investing in high-quality hot tools will make your hair healthier and your life easier. Plus good quality curling irons will last you years

7. Use the right barrel

Barrel size is super important. The tightness of your curls goes hand in hand with how they will wear and fall throughout the day or night. It’s easy to assume that a bigger barel curling wand will give you gorgeous Victoria Secret style curls, but most of the time a smaller barrel will do the trick. Try using a smaller barrel size than you normally would and see what a difference it can make! Not only will the curls look more defined, but they will also last longer. Sometimes using a larger barrel simply leads to the curly hair loosening up into waves faster and falling out.

It is also important to differentiate between a curling wand and a curling iron for different types of curls. A curling iron is usually great for those tight princess curls, while a curling wand gives you more freedom to customize the type of curls. Sometimes all you need is a different technique with the same wand to achieve larger or smaller curls. If you’re unsure what type or style of tool will give you the curls of your dreams, ask your stylist. We have a range of tools you can try out before investing, and can advise you on which tool and technique would be best for your hair goals.

8. Curl It!

So you’ve got the right tools, prepped, dried, prepped again, now its time to curl. Set your tools to 150 degrees for finer hair or extensions. If you’ve got thicker, coarse hair, bump them up to 180 degrees. It might sound low compared to what you’re used to, but remember water boils at 100 degrees and you can cook a roast dinner at 180. It’s plenty hot enough! Working from the bottom layers to the top, take one- to two-inch sections and mist them with hair spray before wrapping them around the iron. Apply tension when wrapping the hair, pulling the iron away from your face so it feels tight, to evenly distribute the heat.

9. Clip It!

This step is a bit of a faff, and it’s not essential, but clipping your curls as they cool will ensure maximum hold. Once you’ve curled a section of hair, slide the iron/tong out and clip the coil to your head. Wait at least 5 minutes, but longer if you have time. My favourite trick is to do my curls first, then leave them clipped up while I do my makeup etc. to make the most of that cooling time. You can also use the cold setting on your dryer to give them one final cold blast and really lock them in place.

10. Cool It!

Maybe the most important piece of advice from this whole article! Once you’ve completed a curl, LEAVE IT ALONE! The most common mistake people make is to run their hands through the curl straight out of the iron and wonder why it’s dropped. It’s not the heat itself that curls the hair, it’s the transition from hot to cold – run your hands through that curl before it’s cooled and you’re pulling the curl out before it’s even had a chance. I know you don’t want to look like Shirley Temple at the end, but trust me. We’re curling right now – we’ll focus on dressing it out in a bit.

11. Shake It Out!

If you’ve clipped your curls, release the clips and let them cool for a couple more minutes before shaking them out. If you break the curls too quickly, they will lose their form in a shorter amount of time. Let your head hang back, and tousle the curls with your fingers. You can also use a wide-toothed comb to comb out your curls, but this will leave you with a softer, waved effect. Leave them slightly tighter than you want them. It is inevitable that your curls will fall out as time goes on, however leaving them a bit tighter while you're getting ready will ensure that the curls last longer than they would have. The bonus here is that once you've reached your final destination, the curls will likely have relaxed just enough.

12. Finish with Texturising Spray or Powder

You thought I was going to say hairspray didn’t you? Nope! If you’re slathering on layer after layer of extra hold hairspray to make your curls hold, you’re actually being counter productive. The polymers of hair spray tend to be too heavy for a finished curl and actually create weight, making them droop. Texturizing spray is great because it adds volume and can also act similarly to a dry shampoo by neutralizing the oils in your hair. Since it’s lighter on your hair than hairspray and you don’t have to use a ton of product to be effective, it won’t weigh the hair down as much and will allow the curls stay bouncy for longer. Finishing with a texturizing spray will help hold the curls in place without dragging them down too much. It will give your hair more body and texture, making your hair look fuller overall. 

If you want a bit more ‘gritty hold’, poof in a SMALL amount of texturising/lifting powder. Literally just one poof on each side from a distance – any more than that and you’ll be a sticky, cloggy mess that you can’t even get your hands, let alone a brush through!

So there you have it… 12 Easy Steps to get the curls of your dreams. As usual, if you’re having trouble or need more advice, ask your stylist - it’s what we’re here for!

See you next time